Chasselas
Description
A typical grape variety of French-speaking Switzerland, originating from the Lake Geneva region.
General and History
Chasselas is a grape variety native to the Lake Geneva region, and its origin has long been debated. In 2009, the author conducted a historical and genetic study on the origins of Chasselas in collaboration with Claire Arnold at the University of Neuchâtel in an attempt to shed light on its provenance.
Numerous legends have been put forward regarding its place of origin. Some believe it was brought from Egypt, where it is called Fayoumi. Others think it was introduced from Turkey by an ambassador of Francis I, the Viscount d'Aulan. Still others suggest it originated in France, in the village of Chasselas, in Burgundy, while several ampelographers consider it to be native to the Lake Geneva region. In fact, its first written mention appears in 1612 in two documents: 1) François Gentil's book *Le jardinier solitaire*, where it is presented as a table grape (intended for eating) under the name Chasselas alongside Muscat, and 2) the *Historia Plantarum Universalis* by the Basel naturalist Jean Bauhin, where it appears as a wine grape (intended for making wine) under the names Fendans, Fendant, or Lausanois [sic], thus revealing its probable origin. Indeed, its first mention in the canton of Vaud (Switzerland) appears in 1696 under the name Fendant Blanc near Lausanne, a name that would be abandoned at the beginning of the 20th century in favor of appellation or village names. In 1848, Fendant Vaudois was introduced on a large scale to Valais, where it had previously existed only in trace amounts. From then on, the name Fendant endured there, so much so that in 1966 the Federal Court granted its exclusive use to Valais.
The author was unable to trace the parents of Chasselas using DNA testing, likely because it is a very old grape variety and its parent stock has almost certainly disappeared, making it an orphan variety. After genetic comparison with more than 500 grape varieties from 18 countries in Europe and the Near East, he was able to categorically reject a possible Eastern origin for Chasselas and locate its original home at the crossroads of Italy, Switzerland, and France. By combining genetic groupings with historical data, the Lake Geneva region emerges as the center of origin for Chasselas, possibly the present-day canton of Vaud, where the greatest biodiversity in the Chasselas grape variety was still observed at the beginning of the 19th century. The paternity test indicates that Chasselas is the possible natural parent of Béclan du Jura (France), Dongine de Savoie (France), and Mornen Noir de Rhône-Alpes (France), illustrating its extensive historical distribution (NB: one of these could theoretically be a parent of Chasselas).
The place of origin of a grape variety is generally the area where the greatest biodiversity is currently observed. For Chasselas, this is undoubtedly the Lake Geneva region, where the renowned botanist Augustin Pyrame de Candolle cataloged 42 types in 1820 in his collection at the Geneva Botanical Garden, a collection that has unfortunately since been lost. To safeguard what remains of the great diversity of the past, the Agroscope federal agricultural research station has scoured old vineyards and recovered more than 300 Chasselas clones or biotypes to date, thus working to safeguard and conserve the biodiversity of the grape variety. Part of this biodiversity is illustrated by 19 different forms of Chasselas brought together in the World Chasselas Conservatory in Rivaz (VD), amidst the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2007.
Distribution in the past and today
3,838.2 hectares, predominantly in French-speaking Switzerland, mainly in the canton of Vaud (2,287 hectares), followed by Valais (944.8 hectares under the name Fendant), Geneva (303.2 hectares), and Neuchâtel (172.8 hectares). In German-speaking Switzerland, Chasselas is significantly less common and is mostly grown there under the name Gutedel.
Chasselas/Fendant was long considered the most important white wine grape variety in Switzerland. However, from the late 20th century onward, numerous factors led to a significant decline in its cultivation area: the overproduction of 1982/83 damaged its reputation, the quality revolution (introduction of quotas) in the early 1990s favored lower-yielding grape varieties, and consumption habits shifted considerably away from Chasselas from the 1990s onward. This led the Swiss Confederation to launch a replanting program (abolishing subsidies) in 2001. Although Chasselas remains the most widely planted white wine grape variety in Switzerland, the total area under cultivation has decreased by 40% since 1986. Of this decline, 20% is in the canton of Vaud and 60% in Valais. The trend is not upward, and with the increasing average age of the Chasselas vines, their numbers will continue to dwindle. However, the return of consumers to more elegant, lighter, and more approachable wines offers hope for a renewed appreciation of Chasselas at both the local and national levels, highlighting the diverse expressions of this grape variety across its various terroirs.
Outside of Switzerland, Chasselas is also cultivated for winemaking in Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Austria, Hungary, as well as in the USA (California), Canada, and Chile. The “Concours Mondial du Chasselas”, held annually at Château d’Aigle (Vaud), testifies to the international spread of this grape variety.
Suitability
Chasselas wines are remarkable expressions of terroir. They offer a subtle yet vast aromatic palette, ranging from disarming neutrality to pure elegance. Their characteristics also depend on yields and the winemaking method (with or without malolactic fermentation). Furthermore, despite its naturally low acidity, Chasselas can develop aromas of honey, elderflower, and chamomile with age, along with a smooth, almost oily texture, in contrast to its youthful vivacity. A quintessential social wine, Chasselas, also known as Fendant, is served on all occasions: as an aperitif, at weddings, funerals, elections, contract signings, graduations, and more, making it a social glue in the French-speaking cantons of Switzerland. It is also the perfect companion to typical Swiss cheese dishes: fondue, raclette, and cheese crust. In the canton of Vaud, certain village names have acquired a local reputation similar to that of Burgundy's climats, such as Féchy, a Classified Vineyard on the Côte, or the two Grand Cru vineyards, "Calamin" and "Dézaley," in Lavaux. It's difficult to summarize the various expressions of Chasselas in the canton of Vaud, but they often feature aromas of apple blossom, white peach, and wet stone, with a fine, elegant, invigorating texture, offering great drinkability (or a "come-back-for-more" quality, as they say locally).
In Valais, Fendant is planted on a mosaic of terroirs located in the warmest and driest climate in Switzerland, resulting in more powerful, aromatic, and sun-drenched wines, with aromas of flint and warm slate, a full and rich palate, often enlivened by a touch of carbon dioxide that maintains freshness and drinkability.
In the canton of Geneva, the wines are fruity, fresh, and light, enhanced by a subtle effervescence, hence their local name, Perlan, which is no longer commonly used.
In the Neuchâtel-Three Lakes region, Chasselas wines are characterized by aromas of citrus, pear, and apricot, with a full, fresh structure and a flinty finish.
A Neuchâtel specialty, Neuchâtel Non Filtré is a Chasselas bottled at the beginning of January without final filtration, retaining its cloudy appearance. It is the first wine of the year, offering aromas of citrus and pineapple, and a rich, full-bodied palate, contrasting with other Chasselas wines that are more crystalline.
Miscellaneous
The name Chasselas likely derives from the village of Chasselas near Mâcon in Saône-et-Loire, Burgundy. It was probably from there that the first vine cuttings were spread throughout France as table grapes. In the Fendant type, the flesh of the berries splits when pressed, which is why they are also called "crackers." The berries of the Giclet type squirt when squeezed, hence the name "squirters."
Chasselas is an orphaned variety, but likely the natural parent of Béclan from the Jura region (France), Dongine from Savoy (France), and Mornen Noir from the Rhône-Alpes region (France).
(Note: Theoretically, one of these varieties could also be a parent of Chasselas, but it is significantly older.)
Literature
·Vouillamoz, J. (2017). Cépages suisses, histoires et origines. Ed. Favre
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